Stripping and Cleaning

Stripping and Cleaning

Stripping and Cleaning: When preparing painted surfaces for re-painting whether walls, woodwork, or floors you don‘t need to remove the old paintwork if it is in good condition. It is sufficient to wash down the surface with a strong solution of sugar soap to break any glaze and remove grease to winch the new coat will not adhere. Then simply rub over the surface with a flexible sanding pad to improve the “key,” and dust it down before applying the new paint.

If the existing paintwork has been badly applied or consists of so many layers that it causes windows and doors to stick, then you should remove the paint. Surfaces that have been poorly painted, or overprinted several times, can take on a sticky appearance, robbing architraves and moldings of their fine detail. Decorative plaster looks particularly unattractive when it has been painted once at twice too often.

You may have to strip the paint in order to me one of the new microporous finishes that require direct comm with bare wood. Be cautious about stripping back wood in order to stain and varnish it, however. A great deal 0f sanding Is necessary to remove all of the primer from the pores of the wood; if any remains, the stain will look patchy.

Stripping Radiators:

it is wise to strip paint from radiators before repainting them, since they will lose their heat efficiency if covered with too many paint layer. Special radiator paints are available that do not discolor when heated.

Chemical stripping:

Chemical stripping can be expensive when large areas are involved, the secret is to be pattern while the chemical works otherwise you may have to apply more coats to get down to the bare wood or metal. Protect your eyes and hands, and keep the stripper away from plastic items.

Them are two m types of chemical stripper. One is a liquid that you apply with a brush and scrape away when the paint was and breaks up. The other type is a paste that you spread on and allow to set before lifting it away with the point of  a trowel. The latter is best for moldings and textured surfaces, since it lifts paint out of hollows.

Be sure to neutralize the stripper after use, carefully following the manufacture instructions. This process involves washing the surface nth plenty of water, probably with a time vinegar added.

Doors, unglazed sashes, and other large items can be taken to specialist usually an a tank of caustic soda. However, thus Involves a risk of the discoloring wood, and the joints in woodwork may open up as any glue or filler dissolves.

  1. Chemical Strippers that are brushed onto old paintwork may take off several at a time
  2. Once the paint has bubbled, use a scraper to remove the old paint. If many layers of paint are involved, more than one application may be needed.
  3. Once the surface has been stripped of all paint, it must be thoroughly cleaned with water to remove chemical residues

Heat stripping:

Most paints soften quickly when you apply heat, but take great care not to overdo it smut the name may ignite. Do not use newspaper on the floor to catch the hot, flaking paint because of the risk of fire. Have a bucket of water conveniently on hand just in case of emergencies. Hold the scraping tool so that the stripped paint arm felt no your hand. Cotton gloves provide adequate protection . Use a flame-prof deflector, such as panes of glass, to shield areas adjacent to where you are working.

Safety Hints:

  • Don’t try to remove very old paintwork with sandpaper. The paint may contain lead and you risk inhaling it along with the dust. Moreover, the friction from sanding down will soften the paint and clog the abrasive. Sand only after stripping is over.
  • If you are stripping very old paintwork with a blowlamp or hot air gun, make sure the area is well ventilated.
  • Dry scraping is possible using a Skarsten scraper for convex surfaces, such as banister handrails. Use a shave hook on finer moldings. Be sure to protect your eyes and hands, and wear a simple face mask when removing old paint using these tools.
  • Protect any exposed skin and your eyes when using chemical stripping agents. These products usually contain caustic chemicals, which could cause minor burns or localized irritatation.

Using a blowlamp:

A blowlamp bums liquid gas either from a small container attached to the torch head or from a larger cylinder connected to the torch by a tube. The flame can be extremely hot, so keep it moving all the time to avoid scorching the wood or cracking glass

Using a hot air gun:

This tool resembles a powerful hair dryer, blowing a jet of air through a very hot electric element. Having no flame, it is safer than a blowlamp, but this can be deceptive since you don’t see anything emerging from the gun. But it can become sufficiently hot to char wood and crack glass, so treat it like a blowlamp.

Stripping around door handles:

You will achieve a neater finish if your remove door handles, and any other door furniture, prior to stripping. If for some reason a metal door handle cannot be removed, use a thin piece of plywood to shield it from the direct heat of a hot air gun or blowlamp. Chemical strippers may not affect the metal, but test them first on a small area that cannot be readily seen-such as the inside surface of the handle

Using a heat stripper:

“Burning off” sounds rather alarming, but it is the professional’s way of removing paint from woodwork; it is not suitable for use on painted plaster and metal.

The idea is to use heat to soften the paint so that it can be scraped off rather than actually setting fire to it. However, it does require care. To burn off a small area of defective paint you can use a hot air gun or a blowlamp with an attached container of butane gas. For larger areas, professional-sized equipment can be rented.

Hold the gun or blowlamp in one hand and a scraper in the other; keep the gun or lamp and scraper moving together. Use a shavehook for scraping moldings. Try not to scorch the wood or dig into it. If you are burning off window frames, keep the heat away from the glass. After you have removed the paint, sand the wood down with medium-grade sandpaper following the direction of the grain, paying particular attention to any moldings.

 

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